One of the principle joys of visiting Cusco is simply getting to know the city and its cobblestoned streets, alluring plazas, abundance of art, silver and alpaca boutiques, and intoxicating ambience. It’s not necessarily the kind of city with a long list of must-see tourist sights. Rather, surrounded by towering Andes mountains, it’s a charming, lively city with palpable indigenous roots, splendid Inca and colonial architecture, and a cosmopolitan vibe enriched by travelers from around the globe. Cusco is the kind of place where it’s a pleasure to amble about the streets of the historic center without a rigid plan, visiting artists’ studios, small shops, cafes and restaurants, as well as the central market and other neighborhoods, churches and other sights not necessarily on the tourist circuit.
Qoricancha
The Incas’ Temple of the Sun, Cusco’s most famous sight, was a glittering palace filled with gold; although ransacked and mostly destroyed by the Spanish to build a convent, it still retains enough of the legendary Inca engineering genius to make it a must-see. The best time to visit the temple is at night, when it remains open and is beautifully illuminated and not overrun by large groups. For visitors interested in Andean cosmology, the temple contains several key points of astrological observation – something well known to the Incas – which can be identified with the assistance of a professional guide.
La Catedral & Plaza de Armas
Cusco’s imposing Renaissance cathedral, built in 1669, Contains 400 Cusco School paintings, stunningly carved cedar choir stalls, and a massive silver altar. It’s permissible to enter the Cathedral during hours of religious observance, though taking photographs is not allowed at those times. The Archbishop of Cusco offers an excellent tour of the cupolas, which we highly recommend for the extraordinary panoramic views of the city it affords. The elegant Plaza de Armas, on the site of the original Inca plaza, lined by arcades and wooden balconies, is Cusco’s main hub. On the plaza, we recommend visiting Café Ayllu, a traditional, independent Cusco café and perfect for a light lunch, snack or drink. It’s light years removed from international chain cafes. Visitors interested in Andean mysticism should take note of and be sure to touch “Wiracocha’s Egg,” found in the entrance of the Cathedral (to understand it’s immense significance to descendents of the Incas, ask a local guide).
San Blas
Cusco’s hilly, artsy neighborhood has great views of Cusco’s rooftops, artists’ studios, and the Iglesia de San Blas, the oldest parish church in Cusco that has an amazingly carved, Churrigueresque cedar pulpit. San Blas is a charming, lightly bohemian neighborhood that in addition to having the greatest views of the surrounding mountains and Cusco’s rooftops, also possesses the finest handicrafts shops and art galleries. Clustered around the small central square by the church there are several antique dealers and the studios of Cusco’s top artisans, including Mérida, Mendívil, and Olave. The best time to visit San Blas is when the light is best, in the afternoon between 3-5pm. The sun bathes the whitewashed buildings and red tiled rooftops, and there’s nothing like sitting outdoors at a bar with views of the square – but be careful, because come midnight you may still find yourself in the same entrancing spot!
Sacsayhuamán
Crowing a hill above Cusco are the city’s greatest Inca ruins, with monumental stonework. Begun in the mid–15th century, it took nearly 100 years to build. Some limestone blocks weigh as much as 300 tons. Cusco’s famous Inti Raymi festival, full of great pageantry and color, is celebrated here annually. The area around Sacsayhuamán is perfect for horseback riding, which permits visits to other Inca archaeological sites, including Tambomachay, Q’enko, Puca Pucara and a couple that have only recently been opened to the public, such as Cárcel. For those with the energy and fitness level, a great hike is to walk from Cusco, climbing the gorgeous neighborhood of San Cristóbal, visiting its church and ruins, and continuing until reaching Sacsayhuamán. Though the walk is steep in parts, the entire thing can be accomplished in a morning, and anyone too tired to walk back down to the city can hop in a taxi (which can be arranged at your hotel to pick you up at a designated time).
Trekking, Horseback Riding & Mountain Biking
In the hills and mountains just beyond Cusco are infinite possibilities for vigorous trekking and horseback riding. The scenery and views of Cusco are spectacular, and on horseback you can visit little-known sites like the Temple of the Moon, the so-called “Zone X,” and the outlying rural community of Salcantay. On the descent, a great way to return to the city is via the “Devil’s Balcony,” a magical and beautiful place of caves and crevices, and a great spot for a picnic lunch. The best way to do it is renting a bike and taking a taxi –with the bike inside the taxi - to Tambomachay (the last point of the route).
Museo de Arte Precolombino (MAP)
A beautifully designed archaeology museum in a beautiful colonial mansion, featuring pieces selected from the invaluable collection of pre-Columbian ceramics and masks belonging to Lima’s superb Rafael Larco Herrera Museum. The museum is so well-conceived, and the pieces chosen from across Peru so exquisite, selected for their great beauty, that in reality it is much more than an archaeology museum; it rates, rather, as a fine, small art museum. The collection was curated by Fernando de Szyszlo, Peru’s most important living painter. Casa Cabrera, Plaza de las Nazarenas s/n. Tel: (084)237-380. In the museum’s courtyard is another enticement, the exalted MAP Café, one of Cusco’s finest gourmet restaurants. Housed in a minimalist glass cube, it is perfect to enjoy in tandem with the museum, either for lunch or a candlelit dinner.
